Running and Hopping in Asia

Tim and Tracy's adventures in Cambodia, Thailand and Vietnam. Tracy is on crutches after falling off a ladder while Tim is geared up for three weeks of events with the "World Interhash" - a gathering of the "drinking club with a running problem".

Name:
Location: Inverness, Scotland

I'm a Brit/Yank who has now settling back in Scotland with wife Tracy after living in New Zealand and traveling in Australia for a couple of years. Having contributed random thoughts on life in the Antipodes I now blog some impressions of returning to my native Scotland after 22 years away, and also document my marathon training to keep myself motivated. I post pictures at www.timcooke.com which also help to tell the story of our travels.

Friday, November 03, 2006

Tuesday 24th October

We were up early for a splendid buffet breakfast before we found a tuk-tuk to take us the 7 miles to Angkor Wat. The Angkor complex is spread over a wide area and was built over 400-500 years. Some of the temples are in their natural overgrown state, others are being renovated, rebuilt or cataloged and Angkor Wat itself was never really allowed to fall into disrepair and has been well restored. For more details about the complex click here.

We spent several hours in the morning checking out the extensive formations and Tracy manfully hopped up and down steps and over stones. The temple was not really laid out in a crutch friendly manner! There are impressive statues, fantastic wall carvings and fascinating structures to check out with fine views from the topmost parts. It is busy but not overrun and one day they may limit what you can climb on but for now you can try your luck on any staircase no matter how steep or worn. There are also a couple of stairs with "real" concrete steps and a hand rail installed but these are still steep. I'd recommend anyone to visit.




Our crew at Angkor Wat

From here we went into one of the slightly newer parts of the complex Ankor Thom. This was built over a long period and while less cohesive than Ankor Wat contains some even more impressive individual structures. Today we just looked around Bayon, the central state temple which while outwardly described (correctly) as looking like a pile of rocks is a fascinating place inside. More wall carvings, enormous faces looking down at you from all directions and a warren of rooms and open areas. The quality of stone appears lower than that of Angkor Wat and there is still much restoration to be done in some areas but it's quite a place.

Bayon

Next for the day was a trip to Ta Prohm, a temple which was left for many years in the state it the jungle had left it in. Large amounts of stabilization have been carried out to stop it all falling on the tourists and some restoration is going on now but it stll has some of the feel of a place you've just stumbled out of the jungle and discovered. By the way it is a sign of the times when the guides are quicker to tell you the areas that were used to film "Tomb Raider" than point out the glories of their forebears! Tracy still managed to make her way through this challenge but was intent on heading home as we got the tuk-tuk to drop us at the long run starting point.

Ta Prohm

Unfortunately the plans had changed twice since we'd left in the morning and we were in the wrong place but finally word got through to us and we jumped on the back of motos to rush back to the east of Angkor Wat and trail. The run took us through the bush around Angkor Wat (a fair long way) and over to the south gate of Angkor Thom for a beer/ water break. Then we climbed up Phnom Bakheng, a temple on an artificial hill for a view before descending back to the paddies and drains for some sqelching through the mud and water.



I had managed to get well ahead of the pack by now and was running alone when the trail started to get more difficult to follow. Soon some "short runners" (who had taken a shorter route since the stop) came up behind and with a few pairs of eyes (plus a helpful local boy with eagle eyes) we continued to spot flour dots till we came upon a check near the main gate of Angkor Wat. This means we have to look for trail continuing in any direction and look we did as the pack of runners swelled. A series of flour marks led to nothing and finally a car sent by the trail layers appeared to tell us we were well out of the way and a long way from the end. A few lucky ones grabbed a ride, others of us were fit enough to run several miles as the light failed and made it back in good time. However people were still coming in for some long time. A bit of a screw up but a nice run otherwise.

The organizers soon redeemed themselves once we'd showered and boarded buses for a final party. A big restaurant accomodated us with ease and the food and drink just kept on coming with a great selection of local dishes. Tracy wowed the locals with her one legged crutch waving dancing and a fun time was had by all.

0 Comments:

Post a Comment

<< Home